Vic Muscle...this section will be
all the cool ways to make your Crown Vics perform & handle like a champ --
all sorts of "how to's" and links to the good stuff. For some quick
answers, check the Crown Vic FAQ (frequently asked questions) -- anything you
want to change or add (e-mail me) ? If you have the
time & money, Kenny Brown will do
all the work for you here: http://www.kennybrown.com.
Also see Sean Hyland Motorsport
Click on any of the links below for more info
on specific Crown Vic mods:
Rims, Tires & Brakes:
Note -- as of 02/01/2002, i have found that MANY different
combos will work all with various details to watch out for or specific
backspacing to make --this includes 17" Torque Thrust IIs,
Roush Perf 18s, 17" Cobras of many types and many other brands
17" & 18". One of my favorite combos: "18x8 front
255/45/18 and in the rear, 18x9.5 with 275/40/18". This is
not an easy mod for the CVs, but there are still quite a few options:
first off, the backspacing on the '92& up CVs is a little weird.
Right around 4+1/2" or 4+1/4". Check out how Mustang rims
look on the Vics with the usual 'stang 5+1/2" or more backspacing.
'94 CV with 15" Mustang rims...a '94
CV with 17" '98 Cobra rims. Not bad, but not exactly perfect.
Another option is the Ford 16x7 OEM rims with center caps &
lugs. They are on www.tirerack.com for $50 to $55. Not a bad solution:
cheap, correct backspacing & accepts 255/50/16s no problem...just
get good H-Z rated tires to cut down on sidewall bulge. If you want
to get nutty & don't like ANY sidewall bulge...take the rims
to a speed shop & have them stretched to 16x8. Check Paul's
combo: 16x7's with centercaps -- 225/55/16s front & 255/50/16s
Stock sizes are 215/70/15 or 225/60/16. 245/50/17 will also fit
perfectly with no speedo error...255/50/16 is also very close as
well as 225/55/16. Check this neat Tire
Calculator to check speedo & odometer against your stock
tires dimentions - basically a 26.65" tall tire. For the actual
tires here are my recommendations *this* week: Michelin,
Nittos look good too, but not much for recommendations here...
THE ULTIMATE (medium-buck) BRAKE CONVERSION: Are you getting
freakin' SICK_AND_TIRED of your stock '92 thru '97 wimpy
10.8" rotors warping every 15,000 miles after stopping your
4,000 car umpteen times ?? How about a 12.4" rotor & dual
piston caliper swap right from factory parts ? Here is the deal
(in "Nascar" Mike's words, he has a '96):
"I am glad to say that everything swapped over perfectly except
for the brake lines. The 99 CV lines are about 3 inches longer,
so I had to make new braided stainless steel brakelines.
Here is a list of the parts you will need if you
do the swap on you 93-97 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis.
- F8VZ-2B120-AA Dual Piston Caliper $77.17 each
- F8VZ-2C396-BA Caliper bracket $40.97 each
- N801052-S100 Banjo bolt $3.32
- Raybestos 66744 12.4" Rotor $47.20 (from
CarParts.com with 33% off coupon)
- Braided stainless steel lines - 16" long
with flared adapters - $32
It's also not a bad idea to replace the hubs
at the same time. more info: "Yes, you must replace the
hubs from your car with the 98 or newer hubs. The newer hubs stick
out about 1/4 inch. You will also notice that the ABS exciter ring
is a better quality than the cheap pot ash crap that is on the 92-97's
now. You will also need new rubber brake hoses as the ones on the
93-97 will be too short. You can either use 98 and newer hoses or
go to a speed shop and have them make you stainless steel braided
hoses like I did. If memory serves me right, the driver side length
must be 16 inches long and the passenger side must be 17 inches
long. Let's review: In order to upgrade
your 93-97 brakes to the 98 and higher dual piston caliper, 12.4
inch rotors here is what you will need:
- 16 inch rims to clear the calipers
- 2 dual piston calipers
- 2 caliper brackets
- 2 12.4 inch rotors
- 2 98+ rubber brake hoses
- 2 98+ hubs Performance Friction Carbon Metallic
- 1 bottle brake fluid
Any questions please feel free to email me at email@example.com"
(2) threads on this: 12.4"
brakes 1 & 12.4"
Intake, Mass Air &
& N filters
Flat filters -- these are the
stock filters; the 1st thing you will want to do to get more air into
the 4.6L. Check my notes on the K & N
filter install for my '93 CV from the My '93
Conical (GT-style) filters
-- an "ok" mod as the conical filters will suck in
HOT underhood air...consider a heat dam or an airbox with these.
We all want the growl. Check out the fruits of Matt's
labors on his K & N conical filter
charger mod. Randy ('94 CV) just sent me some comments on
another (even cheaper!) way to approach this mod: "
I went out and tried to find the K&N Mustang GT filter
for my car but It was $150 and I still wouldn't have a place
to mount my oxygen sensor. What I did, is I went to Kragen auto
parts and opened up all of the K&N conical filter boxes
till I found one that had a 3 1/4 in. opening on the bottom
(the size of the 70mm stock mass air). Then I marked and drilled
holes and threaded the stock screws into the metal under the
filter. Then I took my oxygen sensor and made a hole in the
tube that connects to the mass air and out it in there. It works
perfect. I get more power and a nice loud growl under
acceleration. It cost me a total of $40. " Thanks
Lighting Mass Air Meter & Airbox with
a www.customchip.com chip
to tune it.
-- Paul has had "ok" with this brand of after market
Mass Air Meter on his '98 Crown Vic. If you go to their site,
check out the Application
Chart to match the CVs injector specs -- most are 19 pounds
per hour. I'm not sure what the part number was, but check out
ProM75mm Set-up on his '98 with a K & N conical filter
-- the combo is as follows: "a mass air bracket and replacement
K&N filter for a Mustang GT S trim kit (about $60 for both).
a ProM75mm mass air meter (call Steve at Houston Performance and
buy for $180). make sure you specify that it needs to be calibrated
for an open air cone filter. notice how the Vortech bracket actually
allows you to bolt the unit down to a stock mounting point =)."
Sweet -- another pic of the ProM75mm
& L Performance -- These guys make a nice mass air
for 19 and up injectors. Big with 4.6L Mustangers, the 73mm
MaxFlow unit is designed for high performance Ford vehicles
manufactured from 1989 to present. Also, check their high
flow cats...meow ?
-- Looks nice; I just found this off of Borla.com. Check out the tube
for the F-150
4.6L trucks...this could work, I am going to find out the cost.
So far, I have NOT seen any intake tubes
to replace the stock plastic intakes for Vics. Even so, I have seen LOTS
of custom-made intake set-ups or adaptations from another application
packages. Check out Wes' intake system on his '93 Crown Vic: Intake
Pic 1, Intake
Pic 2, Intake
Pic 3 & Intake
Pic 4. "We adapted the tube from a Nissan Pathfinder package.
The length and the bends were similar to the routing we wanted in the
CV. The pipe is 3 inches. The vacuum hoses (brake booster and the other
[EGR?]) were tapped into the pipe using nipples that you drill a hole
then set a lock nut inside the tube then tighten. The ends protrude into
the tube about 3/8 inch which isn't much considering what the stock
setup does to the air. The brake booster hose didn't need any alteration
with the placement of the nipple but the EGR's metal tube was lengthened
with less than a foot of rubber hose. The nipples were found at Home
Depot and in fact if we didn't use the polished pathfinder kit (show and
go) we could have used plastic pipe (abs or pvc) for a low buck
Kenny Brown's "Lounge Lizard"
SNORKUS with the SVO/Eaton supercharger: Panther
Intake Tube. I'd love to know who did this custom work -- very nice:
black & bad.
There is a K
& N Off-Road Performance Kit that works with most Vics -- Chris
is installing it this weekend & will update on the HP gains. It is
the K & N AIRCHARGER OFF-ROAD PERFORMANCE KIT -- part number
63-1008, WHICH IS NOT EMISSIONS LEGAL! K&N didn't stress that
enough. Summit and/or Jegs has it for 78.99, the local speed shops were
charging 120+, so go mail order! I will post Chris' comments on this
thing at some point. There is also a K
& N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit Generation II, but no one I know
has adapted one for a Vic. The air "dam" to keep out the hot
engine compartment air is the really nice part. Check out this pic of one with the NICE, tiny
AIT filter that goes on it: FIPK
Pic 1 & FIPK
Paul sez: "These pulleys replace your crank, water pump, and alternator pulleys
with ones that “underdrive” several of the accessories freeing up engine
horsepower at higher rpm’s. Any pulley kit for a 96-98 Mustang GT will fit
the 92 and up Crown Vics. The best kit available is made by ASP and is a “balancer”
kit. While other kits require you to remount your old crank pulley on the
new one as a harmonic balancer, the ASP does not (Geoff --
same with the Steeda kit). Also, the ASP does not
affect your vehicle charging system. Some pulley kits will read low voltage
when in gear and your foot on the brake at a stoplight. Unless your running
a competition sound system, this really isn't a concern. Pulleys range from
$120-$200 for the ASP “balancer”. Expect gains of 5-10hp with this
(Auto Specialties Performance) -- here is an install
walkthrough of the ASP pulleys.
SVO -- I'm guessing this SVO set requires the crank pulley to be
-- Their kit comes complete with a replacement "balancer".
-- Note that Crown Victoria's must be changed to 6 rib belt for this
-- these guys also have some NICE exhaust stuff & cheap differential
More torque & 10 HP for around $180. I am dying to do this in tandem
with ASP pulleys. I'm still trying to find out what the stock timing
would be on the timing adjuster for the CVs, I'm guessing it is 10°, like
on the GTs. Here is a nice article on the timing
adjuster install & benefits from musclestang.com's
modular GT section.
I put these under Engine Parts instead of Exhaust...I have heard these
work great with duals if your have them gasket ported, but are a royal PITA
to install by yourself in your garage / driveway...I think the clearances
are pretty tight. Some commentary off the ONElist
CV/GM forum: "after reading the Shop Manual procedure it appears
that you have to disconnect the A/C system, motor mounts, radiator hose, etc
because you have to jack the engine up 4" to get the headers in"
"Shorty" Headers -- also the cheaper Stainless
Steel @ $260.
-- Long tube AND "shorty" headers. Download the entire
MAC '98 catalog (1.8 Mg), get
the catalog or order
-- some nice stuff here, like throttle bodies, too.
High Performance Cams
NOTE: (for the '91 & earlier
model CVs -- I heard that Crane Cams is working on a CAM for the 4.6L
engine that works with EEC) I think normally this is a no-no for most computer-controlled CVs (the
GT cams would make most CVs bog badly), but I'm working on tracking down
this Erson "RV" cam that works with the full-size Fords (with
John's help). Just think, a well-planned cam swap could result in 40 to
60+ HP ! "The RV camshaft was originated by Erson Cams in
1972. Originally designed for use in heavy vehicle and towing
applications, these camshafts have proven to be the perfect answer for
late model, low compression engines, and are now used primarily in
passenger cars, station wagons and light utility vehicles. RV Cams are
suitable for use in otherwise stock low compression engines. Usable
power is increased between 1500 and 5000 (depending on application).
These camshafts have a smooth idle, excellent throttle response and
acceleration, plus good fuel efficiency. For the best possible
performance, the engine should be equipped with headers, a free-flow
exhaust system, a small 4-barrel carburetor and a re-curved ignition
system. These camshafts are ideal for sedans, station wagons, pick-ups,
vans and motor homes. Suitable for over-the-road driving, trailer
towing, etc. Idle is smooth and standard gearing is satisfactory. RV
Cams are available for all late model American passenger car and light
truck engines in hydraulic or mechanical designs."
Cams -- check out the catalog
in PDF format (2.1 Mg) & see the Ford small-block stuff.
Systems & Mufflers
Paul sez: "If you have a single exhaust Crown Vic, yes, get the cat
back. If you have a dual exhaust Crown Vic, save your money and just weld in
some new mufflers. Flowmaster mufflers are cheap and widely available.
Choose three chamber versions for sound similar to a stock Mustang GT, or 2
chambers for a deeper throatier 5.0 sound. Performance gain from a muffler
change is nil. Going from single to dual exhaust will gain you 15-20hp. An
addition mod for a extra 10-15hp would be a custom X pipe with high flow
cats. An “X” crossover costs about $90 and can be purchased at www.drgas.com.
Dr Gas also sells the high flow cats with a package along with the X
crossover. A muffler shop can remove your stock cats and H section and
replace it with 2 ¼ inch pipe. Exhaust pipe larger than 2 ¼ is useless at
the power levels a non supercharged Crown Vic will make and will only cause
lost low end torque."
-- My brand of choice (no drone). I got the Super
Turbos...the race Magnums & Ultra Flos look just as
good, but louder. =D
-- Fairly cheap, great sound & gas scavenging insanity.
Get the catalog online & start drooling. =)
-- Check out the sound of this "Pro-Chamber" pipe
with ...Download the entire
MAC '98 catalog (1.8 Mg), get
the catalog or order
-- They offer a complete system with T304 Stainless Steel and
the Borla intercooled turbo tips welded on. For '96 thru '00
CVs -- $460 at Summit.
Gas -- Very, very nice 2 + 1/2 "X" crossovers
& systems. Check these
videos with a SVO supercharged GT outfitted with a Dr. Gas
"X" pipe & 2 chamber Flows.
-- Look at their Pro-Chamber
H-Pipe set up here on Mustangworld's How-To page.
Check out a few of the popular systems & mufflers:
-- MAC flowpath 2 1/2" cat-back, Powerchamber h-pipe, Dynomax
Mufflers, Flowmasters, etc...
Corral.Net -- That unmistakable & racy Bassani sound ! Very
exotic & NASCAR...
More on the way..................
Rear Gears &
This is a GREAT mod for the Vics & Marquis cars...I ended up going
with Ford Motorsport 3.73 gears, a new Ford Motorsport Traction-Lok unit
(Ford's proprietary limited slip differential; clutches & "S"
clamp style) and the 23-tooth speedo gear. Really wakes up the car, makes
nice dual tire burnouts & the speedometer is dead-on accurate. Chris got
4.10s which are nice as well. Project "Lounge Lizard" went with
3.73s, so i followed suit. I had them installed at Ford
My brand of choice. As far as I can tell, very nice.
-- Another good brand...anyone have these ??
-- If you are going to spend some money, these are excellent.
Torsen -- These guys make a great
limited slip unit.
Get the Ford Police Interceptor Aluminum Driveshaft...a nice mod. Get a
driveshaft loop put in there while you are at it. Hi-po Ford SVO
U-joints couldn't hurt, either.
reinhartautomotive.com Dennis chip
is the best bet to my knowledge currently (05/01/02). The programming is top-notch by one of the best Ford
perf / tranny experts in the US. Talk to Dennis, he will hook you up.
is the very good as well.
This is a VERY average mod...not much difference as i found.
for the Vics & Marquis cars...turns your car into a "sport"
version to some degree. I had the superchips.com brand flashed &
installed at Ford Performance
Specialists where they actually soldered the chip on, shimmed
it to a perfect right angle & taped it in place. The stock "flash"
has these changes -- firmer shifts, removed top speed limited, advanced
timing (you will have to run 93 octane) and increased rev limiter
a bit. NOTE: If you are in
the market for a chip, check out this info from www.PerformanceFord.com
(a superchip reseller): A brief review of Ford's EEC-IV vs
EEC-V ( 'Electronic Engine Control' 4 & 5) and how they relate
to superchips....plus Crown Vic cilivian VS. Police Package
The Ford EEC-IV (eek-4) is
an older processor style which had limited input/output pins and
very limited diagnostics abilities. The EEC-IV had limited memory
storage and many of the calibratons that were programmed into these
modules were extremely small, limited in function and thus performance
abilities. It should also be noted that these older EEC-IV "ECM's"
(Engine Control Computers) had permanent performance calibrations
installed. Thus, if a recall or similar performance problem was
attributed to the ECM, the entire unit had to be replaced.
With the modern Ford EEC-V
(eek-5) there are over 100 input/output pins, it contains more than
double the memory ( for calibration storage ) of many older EEC-IV
units, and has live data logging and extended diagnostic capabilities
when used with diagnostic scan tools. Also, the memory in these
EEC-V units is called FLASH memory...meaning: the internal calibrations
in your Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicle's computer (now called PCM,
Powertrain Control Module) can be updated by connecting up to the
diagnostic port inside the vehicle and downloading new calibrations.
By the way, PCM is now the commonly used name, as these EEC-V computers
now control both, the complete engine and complete transmission
While this FLASH memory provides
many enhancements over older, slower "EPROM" style memory
chips, it does provide a challange sometimes, for automotive performance
enthusiasts, though. As with the EEC-IV system, whatever 'box code'
or program code was listed on your ECM's label, you were assured
that this is what program was loaded into your ECM. Nowadays, with
the EEC-V and it 'ReFlash' capabilities, a vehicle owner could order
a performance enhancing chip and run into trouble as the code he
ordered, based on the outside labels, doesn't really match what
Here at www.PerformanceFord.com
we pride ourselves on selling only the best: Superchips Inc performance
modules. As is the case, we program performance enhancements into
our chips based on our customers 'box codes' which are found on
the outside of the ECM/PCM and sometimes can be found in 1997+ vehicle's
door jambs, by the hinges, or under the hood by the shock towers,
on a white 1" sticker. See our website for full color photos
and example computer codes, etc. Since these external labels are
NEVER changed when a PCM is reprogrammed, a Superchip that is made
for a code, VXX2, for example may not start a vehicle, as the true
code may be VXX3, or VXX4 (example only).
Also, with EEC-V Ford has found
new ways to regulate limits on vehicles, when regulating the engine
top RPM and vehicle top speed limits. Since these new challenges
appear everyday to us, you must be careful when selecting a performance
company that provides you with knowledge and cutting edge performance.
Currently, Ford has introduced as many as two or three methods (or
checks) to control an engine RPM limit or vehicle top speed limit;
thus, if the performance tuning company does not know or understand
how to modify ALL these different parameters, certain tuning changes
simply wont take affect, as not all the limiter / checks are modified.
Result: you will retain your stock engine rev limit or low vehicle
speed limit, sometimes as low as 85 MPH as we have seen in the newer
Ford Ranger series.
Now, onto what we promised:
Crown Vic cilivian VS. Police Package calibration differences.
While we worked hand in hand
with Superchips and did additional research in obtaining information
on the main differences between a civilian crown vic and a police
package crown vic, all efforts were made to double check the info
and figures. If you believe a typo or other error is present or
just want to comment, please inform Geoff, the webmaster, or link
up to our site and email us.
The fuel calibrations are extremely
similar at part and wide open throttle (WOT). The ignition timing
calibrations are extremely similar at part and WOT. The engine rev
limiters are set near 5300RPM's in the Civ. and near 5800RPMS' in
the police. The vehicle top speed limiter is 25% lower in the Civ.
vs. the police. Most civilian crown vics appear to come in 2.73
gears vs. the 3.27 police pack. Major differences are seen at heavy
throttle / WOT transmision shifting! Wide Open Throttle shift points
are 400 - 700 RPMS higher in the Police Pack, depending on gear.
Downshift points vary dramaticaly at heavy throttle / WOT! The police
pack allows much earlier downshifts (as if in pursuit)... The police
pack downshifts occur anywhere from 5 -12 mph earlier vs. civilian,
depending on gear.
Enjoy this data, we worked
hard on researching it, we hope the wait was worth it! Note: Not
all civilian vs. police package C.V.'s will carry the above similarites,
but this at least gives us an idea...
am looking at the 2 or 3-pod a-pillar Mustang GT set-up from Autometer.
If you want the tiny tach in there, try Intellitronix
guages. The regular 2", 2+1/16" Autometers are very
nice. How to install from Steve with the '99 Marquis: "Finally
had a chance to use the heat gun to reform the late model autometer
a-pillar gauge to the '99 Crown Vic and the results came out a lot
better than I thought. Never in my wildest dreams did I think you
could do this but the autometer pods fit like a glove....I'm thinking
about doing it one more time this time with the 3-meter a-pillar
pod that autometer sells through
Jegs and Summit. One
word of caution and that is to take the molding off the pillar then
reform the pods to the stock piece taken off the car else you will
scorch both the headliner possibly setting the vehicle on fire.
I now just have to hook up the electricals and find a convenient
hole through the firewall to cable up the oil pressure sensor but
this is a project for this weekend provided the weather holds up."
FAQ: http://www.crownvic.org/FAQ.html. an older version is below:
What gears should I put in my car?
Gear choice depends on several things, it's a trade-off.
The more gear you get, the faster you can accelerate, to a point.
The trade off is that your gas mileage will suffer with each step
up on the gear chain. Most civilian Crown Vics come with 2.73 gears,
3.27 in the performance and handling package (99-00 Vics with P&H
get 3.55's). Police interceptors get 3.27's from the factory, which
was upped to 3.55's for 99-00. All Crown Victoria's come with open
differentials, which means you will only leave one mark when you
try a burnout. 3.55's should be the minimum you should consider
to up the performance of the Vic. 3.73's are a much better choice
and are still very good with gas mileage. 4.10's would be about
as far as I would go on a lightly modded Vic due to the fact you
run out of revs at around 4250rpm. Regardless of which gears you
choose, consider it a good time to replace your differential at
the same time, the labor is not extra when doing a diff and gears
at the same time. If you can, locate a used Mustang GT posi differential
for $50-75. Most performance shops have these lying around after
they get replaced. Most shops will charge between $150-200 for installation,
add an extra $100 if your bearings are shot. You will need a 23
tooth speedometer gear to switch to any of these gears. With 3.55's,
your speedo will read about 3mph slow at 65mph. With 4.10's, it
will read about 3mph fast. 3.73's will read about perfect. Electronic
speedometer compensators are available from Abbott for around $120.
Is a K&N air filter worth it?
A K&N air filter is worth about 0 as a performance
gain. The flat panel filter can be a pain to clean, and gums up
rather heavily in a small area, reducing airflow. Paper filters
are cheap and do not require cleaning. Also, if a K&N filter
is over oiled, it will secrete residue onto the mass air sensors,
which will cause incorrect readings and subsequent pinging. If you
want some real HP from a filter, consider a conversion to a K&N
cone type filter. Depending on the year of your car, this may require
a new mass air meter calibrated for the increased airflow. Proflow
makes a mass air meter for the Crown Vic. It is the ProM75mm, and
can be calibrated for stock or cone type air filters. Cost is about
$200. Performance gains with stock air box and filter are negligible.
Gains with ProM and cone filter are noticeable. Proflow can be contacted
at www.pro-flow.com. K&N
cone filters and a bracket that will allow you to attach the new
filter to your stock air box mounting points can be purchased from
Vortech at www.vortechsuperchargers.com.
Be sure to specify that you need a replacement mass air bracket
and K&N filter for a 96-00 Mustang GT S trim kit. The bracket
is $20, the filter is $40.
Will a performance chip give me more HP?
The simple answer is NO. In stock form, most chips
will not gain any horsepower. What a chip can do is adjust engine
and transmission parameters for gear changes, shift points, etc.
A stock Crown Vic has shift points set at apx 4000rpm, and rev limiter
at 4500rpm. Chips like Superchips raise your shift points and rev
limiter approximately 500rpm. Good, but we can do better. My recommendation
is to follow Ford lead. On the 99-00 police interceptors, the shift
points have been raised to 5000rpm and the rev limiter raised to
5250rpm. Chips can also be used to increase shift firmness, but
their effects are barely noticeable. See below for recommendations
on shift kits. Chips will also advance your engine timing to run
on 92 octane. The gains are worth maybe 3-4hp and you are forced
to buy expensive gas. Pass on the timing advance and get a timing
adjuster from Steeda which is adjustable with simple tools. $150
from www.steeda.com. A chip
can also be used to remove the top speed limiter which is set on
most Vics to 106mph.
Should I get a cat back exhaust?
If you have a single exhaust Crown Vic, yes, get
the cat back. If you have a dual exhaust Crown Vic, save your money
and just weld in some new mufflers. Flowmaster mufflers are cheap
and widely available. Choose three chamber versions for sound similar
to a stock Mustang GT, or 2c chambers for a deeper throatier 5.0
sound. Performance gain from a muffler change is nil. Going from
single to dual exhaust will gain you 15-20hp. An addition modification
for a extra 10-15hp would be a custom X pipe with high flow cats.
An "X" crossover costs about $90 and can be purchased
at www.drgas.com. Dr Gas also
sells the high flow cats with a package along with the X crossover.
A muffler shop can remove your stock cats and H section and replace
it with 2 ¼ inch pipe. Exhaust pipe larger than 2 ¼ is useless at
the power levels a non supercharged Crown Vic will make and will
only cause lost low end torque.
Can I replace my 85mph or 120mph speedometer?
Yes, Ford makes a 140mph speedometer for the Crown
Victoria police package, and it can be swapped in. It is available
at your local Ford parts counter for around $275.
What are underdrive pullies?
Underdrive pullies replace your crank, water pump,
and alternator pullies with ones that "underdrive" several
of the accessories freeing up engine horsepower at higher rpm's.
Any pulley kit for a 96-98 Mustang GT will fit the 92 and up Crown
Vics. The best kit available is made by ASP and is a "balancer"
kit. While other kits require you to remount your old crank pulley
on the new one as a harmonic balancer, the ASP does not. Also, the
ASP doe not affect your vehicle charging system. Some pulley kits
will read low voltage when in gear and your foot on the brake at
a stoplight. Unless your running a competition sound system, this
really isn't a concern. Pullies range from $120-$200 for the ASP
"balancer". Expect gains of 5-10hp with this modification.
Should I get a performance throttle body?
Performance 70mm throttle bodies are worth about
1hp. I do not recommend them. The Ford and BBK (apx $170) ones fit
the newer Crown Vics, but I do not know if they fit the older 4.6
with the forward facing intake.
What type of performance plug and wires should
Any 9mm wire is pretty good. Also consider the 10.5mm
& 10.4mm Taylor wires that are on www.brothersperformance.com.
If you are looking for longevity, get a platinum spark plug. If
you want better performance, get a standard issue non-platinum plug.
I recommend NGK TR55, Motorcraft Coppers or Autolite 768 plugs.
They are cheap and get the job done. Gap your plugs at .054. Any
high performance wire set from a 96-98 Mustang GT will fit a 92-97
Crown Vic. Don't go overboard though, anything over 9mm is overkill.
Don't expect too much performance from a wire and plug. Better wires
last longer, cheaper ones fail faster, that's the main buying point.
Do I need an aluminum driveshaft?
If you plan on going with 3.55 gears or more, consider
the Ford police package aluminum driveshaft, $260 from your local
Ford dealer. It will help reduce the any vibration and humming your
new gears will make. The faster you go, the faster the driveshaft
spins. The lighter aluminum version will let your engine spin a
little more freely and possibly add some hp.
Should I cross drill my brake rotors?
No, crossdrilling your brake rotors will only lessen
the surface area the pads have to work with and make the rotors
more prone to develop cracks. Stick with either stock Ford rotors
(stay away from the aftermarket cheap crap) or Powerslot slotted
I recommend Carbon Mettalic brake pads, you can get these at www.galls.com
for about $100 for a full set.
What shocks and springs should I get?
Heavy Duty Bilstiens or for an even firmer ride,
Koni's. Whatever you do DO NOT buy KYB shocks, they are terrible.
Springs are a very limited choice. Eibach makes the only kit that
I know of. It is part number 3532.140 and can be found at www.eibach.com
and list for about $220. The springs will drop your Vic by about
1-1 ½ inches. The only other choice is police package springs. They
will firm up the ride very well, but do not lower the car and are
very expensive, like $400+. Also consider Tokicos...now on the Marauder
& other Panther cars.